Type of publication:
Conference abstract
Author(s):
*Mehra S.
Citation:
British Journal of Dermatology. Conference: 105th Annual Meeting of the British Association of Dermatologists, BAD 2025. Glasgow United Kingdom. 193(Supplement 1) (pp i117-i118), 2025. Date of Publication: 01 Jul 2025.
Abstract:
Hair gloss treatments have gained popularity for enhancing shine, hydration and overall hair health. However, their safety profiles, formulation integrity and clinical efficacy remain under scrutiny within dermatology. This systematic review evaluates the efficacy, safety and formulation of licensed hair gloss products in the UK, examining compliance with Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) and National Institute for Health and Care Excellence guidelines. The review bridges academic findings with practical application, offering insights for patient care and regulatory considerations. A systematic review was conducted following PRISMA guidelines, covering studies published between 2010 and 2023. Databases searched included PubMed, MEDLINE, Embase and Cochrane Library, focusing on licensed UK products. Keywords included 'hair gloss', 'safety', 'efficacy', 'formulations' and 'adverse reactions'. Products analysed were Olaplex No. 6 Bond Smoother, Redken Shades EQ Gloss, Wella Professionals Shinefinity, and L'Oreal Professional DIA Light Gloss. Data extracted included efficacy metrics (e.g. shine, hydration and smoothness), safety outcomes (e.g. adverse reactions and ingredient profiles) and adherence to regulatory standards. Twenty-two studies and regulatory reports involving 1000 participants and 150 licensed products were analysed. Key findings include the following. (i) Efficacy. Shine and smoothness improved in 85% of users, with 72% noting enhanced hydration and reduced frizz. Benefits lasted 4-6 weeks. Products with panthenol and plant-based proteins showed superior efficacy, particularly for dryness and breakage. (ii) Safety profiles. While 82% of products adhered to MHRA standards, 18% contained harmful ingredients (e.g. formaldehyde derivatives, parabens and sulfates) linked to mild scalp irritation (9%), allergic responses (3%) and transient dryness (2%). Licensed products like Wella Professionals Shinefinity and L'Oreal DIA Light Gloss exhibited excellent safety profiles due to ammonia-free, conditioning-focused formulations. (iii) Formulation integrity. 'Ammonia-free' and plant-derived hydrating products had fewer adverse reactions and higher satisfaction. Non-clinical-grade products lacked standardized labelling and ingredient reporting, challenging safety and consistency. In conclusion, licensed hair gloss treatments offer significant cosmetic benefits with acceptable safety profiles. However, harmful additives in some formulations emphasize the need for stricter regulatory oversight and clinician guidance. Dermatologists play a key role in addressing patient concerns and optimizing outcomes. Recommendations for practice are as follows. (i) Dermatologists must educate patients on choosing licensed products and highlight risks of unregulated formulations. (ii) Stricter labelling standards and transparency are essential. (iii) Hair gloss treatments should be viewed as adjuncts to address hair health concerns. This review highlights the growing relevance of product safety and efficacy in patient consultations. With academic findings and real-world application, practitioners can better navigate the intersection of cosmetic science and clinical dermatology, ensuring that patient outcomes are both aesthetically and medically optimized. The reflections herein encourage dermatologists to critically assess the safety and utility of cosmetic products in practice, fostering an evidence-based approach.
DOI: 10.1093/bjd/ljaf085.233
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